Potomac to DC

As we start July, we could not pass up the opportunity to visit our capitol. Unfortunately, the skies were a hazy and yellow tinged as the Canadian Wildfire smoke lingered. The summerheat was also oppressive, and  it was actually recorded to be one of the hottest days recorded in the entire USA.  Luckily, the system of heat and humidity created frequent pop up showers. 

Along the river we had nice views of mostly trees and occasionally homes. Around Mallow Bay, appeared a large ship that was half submerged, we looked it up and it was a Ghost Fleet Cemetary. Remains of over 100 vessels like wooden steamships from WWI and many others that were brought for salvage. It is an eerie sight and popular for viewing via kayaks.

Another impressive view was of Quantico Marine Corps Base which sits on the Potomoc and has a large campus and airfield. On our final approach to DC sat MT.Vernon which tourists can visit from large tour ships. Across the river on the Maryland sits the impressive Ft. Washington. Over 200 years old, it proudly sits high and has a history of its own.

Our final approach to our destination, The Wharf Marina, was thrilling as planes departing Reagan Airport flew over as well as low flying US Military helicopters, most likely used for transporting senior officials. Lastly as we were coming down the Washington channel, the Washington Monument was visible, despite the smokey skies.

June 29 Potomac River

This morning we left the Windmill Point, VA marina slightly before 7 am and headed towards the Chesapeake Bay. Once there, the water was fairly calm and skies mostly clear. The water space is so large, it feels so open and hard to see the shoreline. A few hours later, the skies were hazy and visibilty was limited. After dodging the crab pot "mine fields" we entered the waters of Maryland and headed into the Potomac River. The shore is about 3-4 miles on either side of our boat, but due to the smokey atmosphere,(from Canadian wildfires) we still could not see land.

We arrived at Colonial Beach Yacht Center where David met another traveling boater who told him about the bridge work being done about 2-3 miles up the Potomac. David called the Coast Guard and was informed the old metal bridge was to be imploded with explosives at 9 a.m.! Not getting passed the bridge would easily cost us 2 days! So we got up before the crack of dawn, 4:45 a.m. and prepared for our hasty departure! (I have never done the lines in my pj's!) All went well as we passed under the bridge around 6:30 a.m. with no security boats stopping us.

Irvington, VA with the locals

Our friends Kathy and Chris W first introduced us to Irvington, VA several years ago and we were so lucky to be able to see them again. Kathy loaned us her Ford F150 so we could go to Kilmarnack to the Ace hardware, Walmart and a comfort food lunch at Donna’s on Main St. 

Doug departed the boat on Monday, and he told David, it was “The best thing I have ever done!” Great compliment from such an adventurous man! 

On our last nite, Chris, Kathy and Dylan treated us to oysters that they cultivated from their home docks! Prepared on the grill with seasoned butter and spinach, they were the best I have ever had!

Such a great way to start the rest of our Chesapeake adventure!! 

Tides Inn Virgina

Doug and David departed Norfolk for the long run to the Rappanhack River and passed 2 dozen anchored cargo ships in the middle of Chesapeake Bay. Last day for the dynamic duo as they arrived in Irvington, VA to meet Towns. The next few days at the Tides Inn, was like a vacation. We enjoyed many delicious dinners with views of Carter’s Creek. The guys played a small par 3 “executive” golf course, and David enjoyed golf for the first time! The pool was large and relaxing as well. The resort is also keen on environmental education about the oysters and the natural beauty of the bay’s eco-system. We had not been there in few years, but could see a lot of improvements as the resort is becoming somewhat of a BlackBerry Mtn-sophisticated- destination.

Norfolk R & R

The next day, with an early departure they headed to Norfolk Yacht and Country Club following a large 75’ yacht piloted by Cpt. Beau Brennan, from New Orleans. David and Doug met him at Coinjock and were grateful to be guided by the experience of this young captain. this is a very technical segment of the ICW which has many bridges and an small 3’ lock (first lock since Coffeeville, AL on the TennTom), so it was helpful to follow his ship.   

As they navigated the Currituck Sound and the shipping channels around Norfolk, the weather deteriorated.  The Elizabeth River through Norfolk was extremely industrial, with many cargo and military war ships. As they approached the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, they went up the Layfette River and encountered heavy rain and wind and so David had to go to the inside lower helm to operate the boat (probably the 2nd time only!) They docked at a T-head slip in a down pour rain at the Norfolk Yacht & Country Club, a very nice private club that has sailing, swimming, racquets and athletic club. It was thanks to the fun couple they met at Ocracoke who as members, got a slip.

David and Doug only intended to stay for 2 nights but had to stay 3 due to the inclement weather. It was actually a nice break for them to rest after going  so hard for 10 days, and they could use the amenities like the steam, sauna, hot tub, pool and bar!

David and Doug toured the nearby Sloane Estate, a nice example of Arts and Crafts homes. They also walked to Old Dominion University where they met Darden'94 classmate, Kent Mc. They were able to pick up some provisions and all returned to our boat for beers.

Crossing the Albemarle Sound to Coinjock Marina NC

They departed Bellhaven,NC down the Pungo River to the Alligator River Canal (ICW) to the large Albemarle Sound.It was a long 90 mile trip and very rough with 3' to 5' waves.

They arrived at Coinjock Marina (NC) where they met several boat delivery captains and friendly boaters on the dock. David is always interested in talking with these experienced captains at these “must stop” marinas. David fueled the boat in the rain as the weather as the weather was getting worse.  David and Doug have really camped out and had all their meals on the boat, so it was well deserved to dine out at the CJ marina and enjoy the well-known prime rib steaks. David and Doug were glad they stayed at the Coinjock marina, especially since their friend and former Darden ‘94 Classmate recently bought it!

One more thing, the water has a distinctive brown hue as it colored by the tannins from trees. Next time you see a "mustache" on the bow of a boat, it is likely stained from Outerbanks travelling!

Crossing the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke Island, NC

After crossing the massive Pamlico Sound, which took all day and 65 miles, they were fortunate to follow a ferry into the shoaled channel to Ocracoke. They arrived at the Anchorage Inn & rina Silver Lake and was placed on the busy fuel dock. David liked the activity there and also the nearby restaurant called SmacNally’s Waterfront Bar & Grill. While hosing down the boat, Doug and David met some friendly couples who ended up offering them the use of their jeep and golf cart. They toured the town and the island, which gave them a better feel for Ocracoke. David and Doug drove the jeep on the beach (!) and met these fun couples, Marsh & Lynn, from Norfolk, and Bill & Paige, from Middleburg, and ended up having beers on the beach. Great fun evening, they returned to our boat and brought dinner for the guys.

Beaufort, NC HUGE Fishing Tournament

The guys pulled into Beaufort on Friday night during the end of a mega fishing tournament and the channels were narrow and crowded. The Big Rock Blue Marlin Fishing Tournament attracts  multi -million dollar sport fishing yachts and the winning crew received $3 million in cash...not sure how much was 2nd place!.

These guys (above photo) won after the true largest fish was disqualified because it had some evidence of shark bites! Check out this for more info: https://www.cnn.com/2023/06/19/us/fishing-tournament-blue-marlin-disqualify/index.html Over the top, the town was bustling with tourists and locals excited by the tournament. It was like Morehead City’s version of the Derby. They met their friend Andrew S and got appetizers and a great view from a local rooftop bar.

 It was amazing to watch the captains of these sport fishing boats bring their boats in and out of the marina’s slips.

The next day they took a short trip to Oriental, NC, a fishing community on the Neuse River  near the Pamlico Sound. Known for sailing as well as off-shore fishing, there were many large vessels around. They stayed in the Oriental Inn and Marina, a tiny and quaint waterfront  destination.

Doug F comes aboard in June

It was planned well in advance that David’s good friend Doug F would come and join him on his boating journey. It was all great timing because it allowed me to take a trip to visit all three of our kids in NYC. Doug arrived in Southport, June 13th and traveled pretty much every day for 2 weeks. First night, always fun and had a memorable visit on 

Robert Creech’s porch.

Next day, traveled out the ICW on the Cape Fear River towards Wilmington and arrived in Wrightsville Beach at Bridge Tender Marina.  The next morning the wildfire smoke was thick and the air hot. They arrived at Mile Hammock Bay Anchorage at Camp Lejeune, NC. They anchored with 3 other boats while military aircraft flew above them at low levels. 

Southport, NC June 7-8

We traveled about 37 miles on a straight ICW with Oak Island between us and the Atlantic. Occassionally, we could spot the beach and even the waves. Southport is before reaching Bald Head Island, so there was no need to go to Cape Fear River. Southport is a charming small town with lively shops (one general store continiously played patriotic parade music!) and many restaurants. It is a walkable town, but we also used the marina's car for sightseeing. We went to the light house on Oak Island and then checked into the ferry to Bald Head Island. Since I was leaving the next day, we did not have time to visit BH together, but David did go by ferry/bike and said we will go back. For AGLCA folks, the highlight of Southport is visiting Robert Creech. He and his wife Kay, open their front porch every day at 5 p.m. for any visitors, especially boaters and neighbors. He has been a speaker at many of the AGLCA rendezvous and is a wonderful generous man. After I left, David returned the next few nights.

Myrtle Beach, SC on to Southport, NC

The next part of the ICW is known for being a bit more treacherous, commonly called "The Rock Pile." Once again the Bob 423 tracks were helpful for navigation in the shallows. Bob is a sailor that frequently posts updates of his own tracks so to help lead the way for the less experienced boaters. Our trip was 37 miles and once at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, we enjoyed the pool at the marina, but did not feel the need to go see the beach town. We actually could see the buildings on the beach from the ICW.

We left the next day and headed 37 miles towards North Carolina. Most of the ICW appeared to be man made and we passed by some pretty blue water coming from the Atlantic, like at Holden Beach, NC.

Georgetown and Murrells Inlet SC

Once again, our views while traveling on the inside along Carolina wetlands was amazing as we traveled to Georgetown, SC. It was about a 65 mile trip to Georgetown Landing, by the bridge, not in town, and once there the water was choppy. Lots of local Saturday traffic, which rocked our boat. Soon after our arrival, our friends, Paige & Steve B. and Jane & Tom R. picked us up for dinner in the main part of town.

We always have fun with these old friends, and we continued the night with them in Debordieu, their beachside community. Needless to say, Paige & Steve graciously let us, including Rugby spend the night.

On Sunday, we got together with our friends again for a scenic cruise to our next destination, about 22 miles up the Waccamaw River. It was nice to have them describe what we were seeing, so many lovely homes and interesting land. It was an overcast and calm day, so we all could enjoy riding on the upperdeck. At the Wacca Wache Marina, we had lunch on the shaded patio and a wonderful spot at the marina to rest. The next day we did rest, and Jane took me to Kroger for some provisions and David got fuel for the first time since Cocoa Beach, FL. (450 gallons)

Charleston, SC June 1-2

We traveled in the ICW in shallow waters for about 66 miles to Charleston. There were many areas that were scenic wetlands and naturally more homes the closer we were to the city. David uses Bob 423 tracks to help navigate the shoals and hidden rocky areas. We arrived at the City of Charleston's Mega Dock, just in time for me to skip over to King Street. The nice thing, I suppose, about boat living is that I do not want to buy too much "stuff" that has to be put somewhere. David and I met up with his friend Doug K. who treated us to a wonderful local's view of the area. He and his wife hosted us for an amazing dinner on the patio of the historic Carolina Yacht Club. The next day, David met his friend Andy Mc for lunch while I met my friend, Linda G., who I met in painting classes in Louisville. We visited one of our favorite colorist art galleries, The Anglin Smith.

There's never enough time to visit Charleston and we were lucky to have had such special and social experiences over the two days.

Beautiful Beaufort, SC

We had so many stunning views along our brief 29 mile trip to Beaufort, SC, there's not enough room here to share! David liked seeing Parris Island and the giant watertank says" WHERE MARINES ARE MADE" Once at Beaufort's city dock, we walked around the town to see the lovely antebellum homes and buildings. Great boutiques and restuarants, David enjoyed the Hemingway's bar and our dinner at Old Bull Tavern!